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Going to try the new Hummer G4

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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 12:44 AM
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Oh i forgot to ask before does anyone have any idea what the measurements are for the valve adjustments? i think i want to have a check as they were quite tappy when the bike was hot.
Thanks Weegee
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 03:53 AM
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I read a few pages back i think, that once you run your motor in and change that cheap oil to a better grade/quality the noisey tappets become quiter and the motor not so hot
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 04:17 AM
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Yeah Weegeee...Jaz is right....change the oil first for a good one. I would reco using a mineral oil as I dont think the tech in these motors req or are suited to synth oil, maybe semi synth but good old castrol 4T would be fine..its what I'm using anyways.

Like Rod said earlier..these are noisy donks and I found mt adjustments where fine when I checked em.

Thanks for the info on the sprockets too Rod.... :-)

Will dig them up for you anyways mate.

Cheers Doc
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 04:53 AM
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This is turning into a great thread without a doubt, I have 2 hummers, well 1 is my brothers (black) and I have the orange one which I received in the last week.

The 2nd one (mine) I have noticed a couple of things especially the rear braided brake line which I've cable tied to the swing arm, they must have changed them somewhere along the way.

All in all I'm very happy with them, whilst you go into bike shops and they say they don't deal with chinese crap the same principles apply to motovert's, pitpro's etc, hard to tell the difference really.

I'll pop some pics up tomorrow, we'll be more than likely heading off riding.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 06:02 AM
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I was just taking a look at the Atomik site.

The Kuda now has the Zongshen OHC engine

Our bikes (with the Evo II engine) are now called Kuda Pro's

The OHC engine is quoted as having a 14Kw output - but the strange thing is that the Kuda has gone back to the shitty ould welded swing arms, instead of the much stronger machined billet jobbies found on the EvoII bike.

Anyone work that one out?????
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 07:00 AM
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Hi guys, as far as I was concerned, the air filter needed some work. So i have modified things with a unifilter, I paid $30 for it, and as you can see from the links, it fits grouse. Outer cover still bolts on. On the top of your air cleaner box I fitted some mesh as the hole is too large for my liking.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i..._2547Small.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i..._2546Small.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i..._2545Small.jpg
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 08:57 AM
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Hi ppls, CibbyDoc raised a serious point on the back brake line that snakes inwards and hence rubs against the back wheel eating away at the braid and marking the swing arm. I think I have worked around this, although have not even taken the leaps and bounds that Doc has with his riding, this little fix may be a solution.
Start off by removing the fastener as you will need to grind a portion off to remount it virtually parallel to the swing arm to get the results. Undo the nut on the piston side of the line, just a small shift and push the braid closer to the piston until it touches.
Grind the fastener as you see in my picture so that its level with the bend.
At this stage you should already see the braid snake outwards and well away from the tyer .Refit your fastener as shown in picture almost parallel and by now the braid should be looking outwards away from the wheel, but not too much to tangle itself with shrubs and the like out bush.
Hope this helps.

Cheers
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fastener-removed.jpg (33.7 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg braid-piston-shift.jpg (29.9 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg Fastener-grinded.jpg (27.2 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg Line-snakes-outwards.jpg (13.9 KB, 31 views)
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 04:39 PM
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Yeah i allready changed the oil that was the first thing i did i am running castrol 4t as well and yes it quiet every thing down but it still noisy at operating temperatures anyway i will have a look this afternoon i have read somewhere 0.3 so i will stick to that and see how i go.
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weegee View Post
Yeah i allready changed the oil that was the first thing i did i am running castrol 4t as well and yes it quiet every thing down but it still noisy at operating temperatures anyway i will have a look this afternoon i have read somewhere 0.3 so i will stick to that and see how i go.

Weegee thats too big mate...

The correct setting is 0.05 exhaust and inlet (according to my manual).

If you could take some picks and post a how to for those that dont have your experience with motors, that would be awesome.

If not I will when I adjust mine.

Cheers Doc
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2008, 05:24 PM
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Allied....what model air filter is that?...is it just a 43mm pod filter? Great solution...I think you may had beaten Rod to the bar on that one

Archie.....Xlnt work mate...that looks heaps better. I wish I had that info before I did mine. I took off my line and turned it upside down. Seems to be the solution as well, but then I had to bleed the brakes...and yep you guessed it...more drama.

The bleed nipple on the rear brakes is at the lowest point of the caliper so the air travels away from it. You have to take off the caliper to bleed it.....took me a while to figure that one too....this bike is a real challenge I tell you.

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