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Going to try the new Hummer G4

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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2008, 07:43 AM
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There seems to be some build variation from bike to bike.

On mine, the front brake line clamp is further up the forks - although the fork protector would hit the front guard at maximum travel. I should think that trimming a bit off the tops of the fork guards should do the trick and avoid damage.

At the back, my armoured brake line is longer and snakes outwards - well away from the wheel - so I don't have the same problem.

I'm actually intending to modify the air cleaner, since the way it's set up robs you of power -I'll let you know how it works out.

I think these bikes are built out of available parts, rather than being purpose designed, - but a little tinkering will get us there.

I think CibbyDoc must be an adrenilin junky to push his bike that far - but it's good to know the frame will more or less take it lol.

Keep the faith boys!
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 04:15 AM
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Hahaha......No adrenaline junkie here mate....just like to ride hard, always have.

Have found another issue after a pretty full on session today.

Bike started to lose power and die like a fouled plug. Pissed me off heaps...then the bike would start at idle but not accelerate, felt like fuel, but I knew it couldnt be, I had just cleaned the carb. Anyway pushed it back to camp and changed a rather carboned up plug.

Long and short of it....after 5 days of riding ruts, the coil (which sits too close to the frame) had a wear spot in the high tension lead and was earthing out on the frame.

I bent the 2 prongs for the metal bracket of the coil into and "S" shape and spaced it out with 2 washers and re insulated the HT lead and all good now.

Rod....your right for sure. These bikes are not designed..but rather high end PIT bikes. But I can tell you this for sure "THE FRAME IS BULLET PROOF....I WILL GUARANTEE IT". The paint aint so hot and will req touch up sprays to keep the rust off....but frame strength is as good as any Honda I have ridden/jumped.

I should have most of the bugs worked out soon....but may need another bike after I do...LOL
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Last edited by CibbyDoc : 02-01-2008 at 04:20 AM.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:12 AM
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Hi there ppls, for those that are looking to rec reg their bike in vic, it’s easy as they require bare minimal add on. Here is their website for more info Recreational motorcycle registration : VicRoads
One of the difficulties I found was the switch box, as it interfered with the clutch lever as it would not fully close to disengage the clutch. I managed to work around that by shaving the square block to the extreme where the clutch screw adjuster resides. Turning the screw all the way in gave me the room for a functional clutch.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:13 AM
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Single square light with hi-low beam wired to work both stages, wasn’t fussed about the face colour as it sorta blends in with the black fuel tank.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:16 AM
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Rear fender required bending by tying up the outmost edges by the plate holder with some wire, pulling it back towards the frame to bring the rear led 3 in one tail light to eye level. By warming the fender with a hand torch I shaped it taking care I didn’t get too close to discolour or burn the fender. Any excess buckle in the fender can then be shaved away by a sharp knife or filed down to make it look natural
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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:16 AM
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Horn situated right behind the light, bolted onto the alan key screw that’s readily available. I wired that directly to the battery as opposed to the lighting going thru a 15amp fuse. Bike running, lights on and horn blasting away I saw no degrading in the charging system with perfect idle even with the shitty spark plug.
Rear brake light controlled by the front brake lever switch and plate with tail light controlled by the switch box.
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:18 AM
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Finally the mirror that will swivel back into the bike so as you can race thru the scrub without damaging it. I am booked in for inspection on the 08/01/ and will bring everyone up to date on how I went.

Cheers
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:40 AM
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Archie....thats cool mate.

If you dont mind...what that set you back and did you buy it as a kit or parts....?

A solution to the switch problem could be to use a standard Honda XR250-400-600 clutch lever (brake lever fits as well) which is about $15 from your local Honda dealer.

Also there is a 4 pin plug situated on the left inside of the frame, low near the swing arm, that is powered on. Would be a good spot to power your lights from. I suspect it is there for that purpose in China (as in bikes registered in China).

Looks the goods mate....enjoy.

Doc
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Last edited by CibbyDoc : 02-01-2008 at 06:45 AM.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:41 AM
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Hey Archie did you wire up your foot brake to work the brake light i did when i rec regged a Atomik ProX 250 at Greensbrough Vic Roads, and she didnt even check, only prob i had was the frame was not stampped, so i had to stamp it with a VR number they gave me
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2008, 06:46 AM
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There is a Dirt Bike Wreckers in Altona Melb that sell NEW mirrors, lights ect pretty cheap
Just Dirt Bikes Motorcycle Wreckers Secondhand Bikes
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