6) Tools needed on first ride.
A tool bag is always handy on a day out riding as you never know what could happen while riding. You may even loose some screws as you didn’t lock tite them or a screw may come loose putting your self in danger or death. Refer to step 4 on how to apply lock tite on screws.
I usually carry around a small pouch of tools with me. Depending on what size your bikes nuts are or Allen keys are I usually bring a few Allen keys, 4 socket sets, and 4 o ring spanners and a few open Enders. There’s no point carrying extra tools that won’t help you and your bike in a situation so make sure you have the correct size tools that you decide to bring with you on your next day out.
7) Chain tension.
Chain tension is important to get the most out of your chain and to get the most out of your days worth of riding. To tight you can snap the chain or stretch the chain to quickly and by the time you know it you will need a new one. To loose will cause the chain to jump up and down when riding and come of the sprocket, that’s when you will need to go to step number 2 ^^^^^ to get your self back home to perform some minor repairs.
There has to be about 20 to 25mm of slack in the chain, don’t forget when you sit down that the chain gets tighter so measure it out where a good point is, but about 20mm is a good starting point.
Chain pushed all the way up to swing arm, does not hit swing arm misses by about 20mm.
This is my bike up on 2 wheels, there is no sag at all in the suspension. As you can see that there is sag in the chain line, it may look like way to much but then again once you sit on the bike the chain will get stiffer. Not many people realise this but please take note on your chain tension when sitting on the bike. Once you are sitting on the there should be around about 20 to 25mm of slack.
8) Cleaning the bike.
I like making sure that my bike is clean after a days ride. I use general car wash which is Armorall Wash and Wax, high pressure hose, Degreasser, Car sponge, Tooth brush, plastic bag, car sponge and a scrubber of some sort to clean the tyres. NOTE plastic bag is not needed if you have a closed in airfilter.
I firstly put a plastic bag around the air filter to make sure no water seeps through the carburettor I then hose down the whole bike and then use a High pressure gun all around the bike trying to avoid the bearings and any electrical wires. I avoid bearings as the bearings have either grease or oil in them and I don’t want any of that substance to come out of them.
I then go over the whole bike with the car sponge and soapy water making sure the plastic gets a real good clean. I repeat this about 2 to 3 times depending how dirty the bike is. I then high pressure it all away making sure I don’t peal of any stickers at the same time.
I scrub the tyres with the brush and then hose down majority of the bike with degreaser and scrub the engine with a soft tooth brush and scrub the chain and sprockets. I then hose it off with the high pressure hose leaving the bike in a clean note the way it came out of the crate.
9) Building procedures which need to be done out of the crate.
There are a number of items that do need to be mounted onto the bike before full operation of your new mini motorbike.
These are the items which do need to be added to the bike, this doesn’t mean that you have to buy these parts they already come with the bike but just not mounted for postage reasons.
Front and rear break pads need to be put on which are included in the box. To install rear break pads the rear wheel will have to come off unfortunately and then put back on. The front wheel is already of so all is needed to be done is to place new break pads in front calliper and install front tyre.
How to install break pads please go to step number 9.
Rear break lever needs to be added with a number of other equipment like split pins, washer and spring to make sure the brake lever goes back into neutral position.
Plastics which include front mud guard, seat and left and right side guards. The left and right side guards are already attached to the seat but do need to be tightened slightly as they are loose. Nuts, screws washers and rubber washers are included with the bike which does need to be used on plastics.
Handle bars need to be put in place and mounted down with handle bar brace, doesn’t matter how you sit them as long as they are comfortable for you and that they are even side by side. Usually the handle bars should be facing sky high but then again up to you on how comfortable you like them. Also the MSO or other manufacturer brand padded chest or head protector does need to be added to handle bars which is easy to do as it is only Velcro.
The muffler needs to be added also by placing muffler over exhaust manifold and mounted down with metal bracket with a line of rubber protector which is added also with the bike. There is also a spacer which is added that’s about 15 to 20mm long, this is added between the exhaust bracket and rear frame once screw has been passed through.
The rear cradle frame has been mounted on but needs 2 extra bolts added to it so that it is fully mounted down and tightened.
The CDI unit needs to be put in its little holder “Pouch” which is easily visible and easy to do.
The fuel cap also needs to be added, be sure to put the fuel cap on strait as it is made out of Aluminium and has sharp threads which can easily cross thread the fuel tanks thread. Place fuel cap on fuel tank thread making sure that it is flat and even slowly turn it, if it feels tight take of immediately and try again until it roles on smooth.
10) How to take of and change gears when riding.
Taking of and changing gears when riding is very important for you and for your bike, why is this, if you don’t know how to take of or change gears you can put lots of stress on the engine making parts like the clutch wear much easier and you wont get the most out of your bikes power if you don’t know how to change gears while riding.
Taking of is always a mission if you’re the first rider of a bike not alone pit bike or mini bike but also full scale bikes. When I teach my friends how to change gears I let them play around with the throttle for a bit and let them slowly release the clutch until the bike starts moving. This just gives them a good feel of how much revving is needed and how far the clutch needs to go out.
Hold the clutch all the way in with the bike in first gear, then slowly rev the bike making sure you’re not over revving it and release the clutch gently “GENTLY” until the bike is moving you can release it all the way. You may find that you won’t have a smooth take of but that’s fine as long as you keep going. Practice makes perfect keep trying that and by the time you know it you don’t even need to think about how much revving to do and when to release the clutch. Releasing the clutch gently is important as if you release it to quick you can stall the bike or you can pop a wheelie of the line causing the bike to flip and this is when you can do damage to your self or the bike.
But why when Pro rider’s take of they drop the clutch real quick and throttle the bike as if it’s hot? They have had lots of experience riding and plus their clutches are set up for the rider. Once you have learnt the basics you can slowly start taking of faster but for now you need to learn how to take of and this will take a while until it’s all smooth on take of.
Changing gears while your riding is much easier then taking of but still is slightly hard specially if your going at a low speed. When changing gears while riding you have to be on the correct speed if you’re to slow for the gear your in then you don’t have to change but if the bike is revving out saying change gears then you must change up a gear. By doing this hold the clutch in and up shift a gear with out throttle on, once you have up shifted you can drop the clutch you don’t have to let it out easy. If you do let it out easy you will ride the clutch which will wear the clutch easier.
Same goes for changing down a gear if your going up a hill and there’s no power in the bike you may need to down shift doing the same as up shifting but you may need to go down 2 times a gear I recommend doing it one at a time.
Thanks
Dean
Hexxagon Champion!
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